make a corset
This Instructure shows you the structure of the basic bodice from start to finish.
I won\'t go into details about pattern making, but I have provided you with some resources to make/buy your own pattern.
Please note that this is not a proper historical bodice but a simplified bodice.
It doesn\'t have all the finishing touches that the professional bodice maker uses, but for a large night it\'s perfect as a dress or as a basis for an evening dress. Happy sewing!
For this corset you need: Material :-
Outer fabric of your choice (
I use raw silk, it won\'t be too delicate, otherwise your bones will pop out)-
Lining fabric, ideally coutil (
Cotton for corset)
But any strong
Just stretch cotton. -Interfacing-
Spiral/steel bone in this corset, 20-Eyelets-LacingTools:-
Sewing machine (obviously! )-
Rotary knives and mats
Punch in fabric/leather (optional)
Selecting/making patterns is the most important part of the process.
There are many ways to do this.
First think about what shape you want: How much do you want to press your waist (if at all)?
What shape is Bust like around (
More like the top of the skirt, or cut like a bra)?
Is history Entertainment more modern?
For example, this bodice is not cut like underwear, more like an evening dress, it is not designed to shrink my waist.
I put on my pattern but unfortunately I don\'t have a dress anymore so I can\'t record these steps here.
However, if you are not familiar with stereo cropping, it is not difficult to make it using a flat pattern.
Instructable user poopki has links to some instructions for making patterns on her website.
There is also an online bodice making site, and while I haven\'t used it myself, I heard it is very good.
If you like to buy a pattern, this is the brand to choose from.
Laughing at the moon and past patterns will be the correct historical pattern, and in my opinion anything \"Halloween\" in the title will be too simple and may not look very good.
Once you have chosen/made a pattern, it is very worthwhile to sew a Muslim model first.
Use some cheap stitching at several key seams to get a sense of fit and then modify as needed.
The actual bodice structure takes a while and it\'s hard to fix it as you move forward, so this is a very important step in using the new pattern for the first time.
Just a quick explanation of the different types of bones.
Don\'t use anything: if you go to a chain of craft shops, you will most likely only find cheap plastic boning, usually in a wide variety of sewing (center)
Housing and plastic (left).
Don\'t use these.
They twist and buckle and are bulky at best. Avoid them!
What to use: you want to use steel (not pictured)
And spiral bone (right).
Steel bones can be used at side or rear seams without curves.
Spiral bones are used for Bent seams as they will be contoured to fit the seams of the bodice where straight bones will buckle.
In this note, I used a screw for all the seams as this is what I have at hand, but in theory most of my seams can use steel bones, because only the front seams of the chest have a large curve on them.
Where to buy: you can order bones and other bodice items online in Corsetmaking, USA.
Design of Vena Cava based on com or UK.
What length to buy: you can cut the bone yourself and cover it up, but if you already have your pattern, you can save a lot of trouble by buying the right size bone.
You want to buy a bone 3/4 shorter than your seam, otherwise it will put too much pressure on the fabric and may break through after wearing it several times (
Or wear one because I found my first bodice! ).
Because the pattern block is mirrored, you can double the fabric and cut both sides at the same time.
I have a seam allowance of 1/2.
It\'s better to have a generous seam allowance, as there will be extra layers to wrap the bones and increase the strength when you stitch the channel.
Cut one set from the outside fabric and cut one set from the lining fabric.
The last step is to cut two interfaces for the back panel (
Where will the laces go)
And then iron them.
This is to provide extra stability for the eyelets.
In fact, I used the iron when patching the fabric, not the interface, because it was something around me and it worked fine.
Sew the panels of the external fabric together.
Do the same for lining fabrics.
Once both are done, clip the seams to the waist and chest as needed, then iron them flat.
It\'s important to press them all so you don\'t get weird creases and bumps when you sew the channel.
Place the lining panel along with the facing panel on the right.
Sew both ends together along the back panel.
Turn right and press.
Interesting part now!
It will take a while to prepare for a lot of sewing.
Pay attention to ensuring that the front and back fabrics are arranged as precisely as possible.
In this bodice, I have a bone on both sides of each seam and one on both sides.
I usually start in the middle of the corset and work in the back two directions so that if there is any difference in the way the seams are arranged, it even works
Work from one side to the other.
Stitch Channel: for each stitch, I first stitch a stitch line next to the seam line on both sides, as close as possible.
Slowly sew the first of these seams to ensure that the seam lines of the outer layer and the lining fabric are arranged as perfectly as possible.
I can usually tell by feeling that they are lined up, but if you find it difficult, you may want to nail the seams first.
After sewing the two seams next to the main stitching, sew the other side of each channel.
For my bones, I used a 3/8 \"1/4 channel\" to give it a little wiggle room.
Trim edges: After finishing, trim the edges to remove the miscellaneous lines and smooth out any irregularities in the shape.
This is where you choose how to finish the edge.
However, I chose the clean edge if you want to use also good deviation binding.
If you choose to have clean edges, you can also sew back to the top seam in step 6 anyway.
Since this corset uses the face to finish the edge, this is what the picture here and the steps below show.
However, if binding is used, just do this for steps 10 and 12 and skip Step 13.
Cutting Face: for the top, put down a piece of lining fabric on the cutting pad, the width is as wide as the bodice stretch.
Put the corset down and place the top as flat as possible on the lining fabric.
Cut at the edge of the corset.
Remove the corset and make a strap that extends about 1.
5 \"go down from the line you just cut.
For bottom facing, do the same thing, make sure the bottom of the corset is as flat as possible before cutting.
If you choose to have straps, you will connect them in the next step.
For mine, I cut 1 1/4 \"bars to create a band that is slightly wider than 1/4 \".
To build, fold the sides to meet each other and hide the edges.
I sewed a seam on both sides of the strap.
Nail your strap down and sew the front.
When finished, fold the fabric and keep the front stitching.
Turn your face to the back and press.
If the strap is not lying flat, trim any bulk seam allowance in the strap area while leaving around 1/2 of the strap so it is not too fragile.
Insert bones into each channel.
There will be four layers of structure for each channel (
Front and rear, plus their seam allowance).
I usually insert the bones in the middle, between the first two layers of the outer fabric and the inner two layers of the lining fabric.
However, if you are using a very strong lining fabric and a delicate outer layer fabric, you may want to insert it between these two layers of solid lining fabric.
Use your judgment.
Connect the bottom surface using the same program as in Step 10.
Be careful that the bones are pushed to the top as much as possible so that you don\'t accidentally break the needle!
The hands are stitched down along the interior.
Time for hardware!
Mark where you want to put the eyelets, about 1 \"apart \".
Cut or punch.
Insert the hole eye into the hole to ensure that the hole eye is clean.
Turn the fabric over and hammer them to the spot using the eyelet tool.
All that\'s left to do is tie the straps to the back!
Tie it up and nail it in the right place.
Then stick them to the back and trim the excess. (
Note: it is the cleanest to insert them into the front, but I am lazy; )
As an optional final step, you can add a modest panel at the back if needed, which is essentially a fabric strap located behind the laces to cover up the exposed skin.
I omitted this step. And voila! You\'re done!